Lutz Huelle Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Why are some things trendy and others not? What is the It factor that makes you want to wear a top, a dress, a jacket again and again? Lutz Huelle reflected on these topics. He’s what you might call a small-batch designer, iterating on his silhouettes and selling them mostly DTC through his website, where instant feedback helps inform what he does next.

When he has a hit, he knows it, because determined shoppers will email or DM to find out more. And vice versa, it also sees skipped parts. For the spring, he decided to try to dig the opposite situation. “There are things that I like, but that I could have done better or that I didn’t sell well,” he explained.

An off-the-shoulder, beanbag-sleeved taffeta top was one of those things. The original, he says, didn’t have enough poof, so he added more volume at the top of the sleeves and also cut it into a coat and cropped jacket. Poufs reappear throughout the collection, including on the sleeves of a black jersey cropped top, a piece he might once have sworn to, but for the aforementioned attention he paid to what the people seem to wear it again and again. Huelle, to be clear, is not a trendy designer. Its aesthetic is too elaborate for that.

There were also new releases from big sellers. A sleeveless jacket with gold sequined lapels sold out last season, so he remade it with black sequins for a more subtle look. That, in turn, inspired a men’s suit fabric waistcoat, which he spliced ​​at the midriff with a worn-in denim jacket, as well as a longer version that can double as a minidress with sequined biker shorts. below. Sequins were another straight line in the collection, also appearing as a horizontal stripe on his recycled denim jackets and as tuxedo stripes on the outside of his jeans, which he pieced together from two used pairs. “The stripes curve at the hips giving you a really nice shape,” he said.

Watching Huelle work her way through the rack, learning how one piece begets another, is a lesson in how to put simple pieces together to create a look that feels new. If he were to put videos of this process on his DTC website and Instagram, he would sell even more.

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