Gems cut like a kite fly high

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Move over classic pear and marquise cut stones. Kite shaped diamonds have a moment, enticing fans with their avant-garde style, rarity and brilliance.

Kite shapes, also known as shield shapes, have appeared in recent fine jewelry collections. For Dior’s floral-themed Dior Rose line, the cut reflected the house’s signature asymmetrical style in a suite featuring a necklace with a single 3.97-carat kite-cut diamond on one side, and matching ringlets. candlestick ears with a total of six kites. central diamonds cut to 4.60 carats.

And Cartier’s Sixième Sens Coruscant necklace played with geometry and light, its central three-carat kite-shaped diamond complemented by octagonal-cut 1.62-carat and emerald-cut diamonds of 1.54 carats. – a design that Jacqueline Karachi, creative director of high jewelry at Cartier Studio, described as “powerful play of lines”.

Kite shaped diamonds can come in elongated or shorter, somewhat chunky shapes. The style was initially popular in the 1920s and, just as Art Deco has enjoyed a century-old revival, the over-the-top cut has been increasingly sought after.

Thelma West is a Nigeria-born London-based jeweler and gemologist who said she has observed more women requesting kite-shaped center stones for engagement rings, with the pandemic making, “many women more open. to experiment – they don’t. I don’t have that normal hesitation in settling for an oval or a round shape, “she said.” Basically there were a lot of people willing to say yes to the novelty. “

Ms. West’s own designs include a pair of earrings with a total of five carats of kite-cut yellow diamonds and four carats of Asscher-cut white diamonds.

The shape of the kite enhances the sparkle of the gem, often making it appear larger than it is. “Shape is important,” Ms. West said, “when cut flat they can look really gorgeous because the table is amazing.” (Gem cutters use the term table to refer to the large horizontal facet in the center of a stone.)

Brazilian jewelry designer Ara Vartanian is known to work directly with specialist tailors to produce kite shapes cut from all kinds of stones, including Paraiba tourmaline, morganite, and rubellite. He said cutting a kite was a challenge whether the stone was rough or just being reshaped: “You have to cut spikes, which can break, and they can’t be too much. pointed. “

Still, the cutters are more than willing, Mr Vartanian said, as they are usually called upon to make traditional shapes, like pear cuts. “They do the same thing over and over again, so we bring something that excites them,” he said. “Cutters work out of passion.

Mr. Vartanian likes to showcase the kite cut stones with triangular diamonds for a punk look. So the heavy part of a pendant, for example, is at the top rather than the bottom, like in classic jewelry. “It makes you think and step out of your comfort zone,” the jeweler said. “I love these tips, points, lines and angles, it’s daring. It speaks to me.

For her storytelling designs, London-based jeweler Sabine Roemer paired kite shapes with other geometric stones, such as in a recent bespoke engagement ring that counterbalances a kite-shaped diamond with one ruby ​​and multiple diamonds. white, all in trillion sizes. Together, she said, the stones were reminiscent of a comet that was in the sky last July on the night suggested by the client.

Ms Roemer said she also observed more and more customers requesting kite shapes, saying they liked what she described as the ‘very sharp but very beautiful’ look of the stone. .

Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director of Bulgari Jewelry, said it wasn’t hard to find the shape – “but finding that top quality shape is,” with kites often cut into small stones for them. side adjustments. Last year, Ms. Silvestri stumbled upon what she described as a premium fancy diamond in the shape of a bright yellow-orange 5.02 carat kite. She celebrated the stone in a high jewelry platinum ring complemented by a band of yellow and white diamonds – a motif that winked at the golden rays behind Bernini’s sculpture “Ecstasy of Saint Teresa” in the church. Santa Maria della Vittoria in Rome.

Also known for its high-quality stones, the Geneva-based house Boghossian, whose Kissing collection notably stacks precious gems of choice, using a minimum of gold for a maximum of light. In a pair of earrings, for example, two kite-shaped tanzanites were accented with two white kite-shaped diamonds.

Overall, the shape of the kite provides a cool and modern vibe, as the stones look “very simple but still very stylish,” said Stephanie Wynne Lalin, co-founder of New York brand Jemma. Wynne (the name combines those of the co-founders, Mrs. Wynne Lalin and Jenny Klatt).

The brand – whose kite-shaped diamond pieces are sold out – aims to create “wearable silhouettes with a twist,” Ms. Wynne Lalin said, where funky kite shapes are set in classic signet rings or added to simple chains. A blackened gold chain, with an off-center kite-shaped gemstone, was recently created for a client who wanted to play with the #neckmess layering trend. It has become sort of a setting for her other classic solitaire diamond pendants, Ms. Wynne Lalin said.

“It’s a bit more edgy than we’ve done in the past, but still has a classic look,” she said. “It won’t come out in 10 years” – like the kite itself cut.


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