Burberry Resort 2022 Collection | Vogue

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Three years after the start of his tenure at Burberry, Riccardo Tisci leaves his creative process to instinct. If that was clear on last month’s men’s show, the pre-spring collection he released this week only confirmed the validity of his new (old) direction. Take the masculine look in a kilt and sweater adorned with spherical graphics, the very embodiment of refined punk and the “high trophies” he invented at Givenchy. Or how about the nomadic vibe of luxe womenswear that wrapped a matching striped kilt and sweater in a plaid scarf?

Tisci enthusiasts will be delighted with these black utility jumpsuits with white stitching and star patterns. They will swoon over the geometric patterned knit dresses worn with Roman sandals. “This collection is about codes and creativity,” the designer said in a statement, perhaps hiding his motivation in plain sight. “It has always been important to me,” he continued, “to encourage freedom of expression and to blur the line between traditional notions of masculinity and femininity.

As expected, her men’s show in June sent shockwaves through social media. After years of adapting his vision to the British class codes he spoke about throughout his Burberry residency, what does his return to his most fundamental personal aesthetic mean? “The world is going to restart,” Tisci told me at the time, referring to the end of the lockdown. “And for me, it was cool. This is what we want today: expression, freedom, physical freedom; be ourselves. It’s punk in a positive way: breaking boundaries.

While Tisci’s challenge may now lie in breaking the constraints of an aesthetic that he previously felt as if he had to live up to it, his argument remains the same: after the pandemic, there is no has no time to pretend. We must live and work authentically. In the process, her change of direction – the direct splicing of her own codes with those of Burberry – feels like a natural resolve. In June, Marco Gobbetti, the CEO who joined him at Burberry three years ago, stepped down for a new position at Salvatore Ferragamo. In all respects, this opens a time of change for Tisci, who now has a new path ahead of him.

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