Imitation of Christ Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
In reaction to this debacle, the creator, who is also a director and visual artist, shot a terrifying film about “the ever-present war on women’s bodily autonomy” at The Hole in Los Angeles, featuring “pregnant” models. (they wore prosthetics) and movie prop guns. Called Last Looks, the actors wear the repurposed garments that are part of IOC’s Spring 2023 collection, in which the most notable pieces featured in the images you see here – stills from this video, which was created early september.
Subkoff had no plans to show at New York Fashion Week until she was invited to collaborate with New York Communities for Change with whom she organized an “Oil is Death” “fashion event”. during which activists and dancer friends of Subkoff also wore the reworked pieces. like those in the embroidered recycled cotton programme. There is an alignment between Subkoff’s values and those of the protesters, who, she says, “are trying to evoke and create real change for everyone.” To me,” she continued, “that seems like a much bigger thing to celebrate than ‘Do you like this or do you like that?’ ”, referring to Y2K videos on TikTok. Like many people, Subkoff questioned the role of fashion and concluded that “it feels necessary when combined with cause-based projects and as a platform for awareness.”
Subkoff is not only interested in big topics like climate change and reproductive rights, but also in creative freedom and self-acceptance. In his view, revival is only surface, not substance. Overhearing our conversation, illustrator Jeffrey Fulvimari (who appeared in a 1996 cK One commercial) shared his thoughts on the ubiquitous 2000s revival. “You can’t have the choker without the context “, did he declare. For Fulvimari, the fashions of the time were “a distillation of punk”. He believes that rather than being decontextualized, the values of the time – not just the aesthetics – should be revisited.
When IOC started in 2000, vintage was not yet standardized, nor did the brand show immaculate historical clothing, but those that showed their wear. The spring 2023 collection, which is less consistent than the others, is “very much in the vein of the original OG Imitation Y2K fashion of 2000, which is situationist theory, punk rock feeling and the idea of putting on a show” , Subkoff said. “Situationist culture was a lot about protesting, but the way you protested was to put on a show so people would pay attention to what you were saying. And that’s really what we’ve been doing all the time. If you want to recycle Y2K fashion,” Subkoff added, “then understand the confidence that comes with it, understand the power that comes with it. We didn’t care what other people said or thought, in fact, it was the complete opposite of that. IOC maintains this rage against the machine.